Selfie in Sitio, Nazare

Follow in my Footsteps: Fish, Funiculars and 100-Foot Waves in Nazaré

My week in Portugal was primarily about best surfing locations. It’s been years since I was on a board, and I wasn’t quite ready to surf the waves in Nazaré, which can get over 100-feet high in the winter! Everything else I found the town was simply wonderful.

Nazaré was the first stop on my tour of central Portugal. Taking a nap in the van from Lisbon (since I was up at 5 to catch my flight) I was woken up as we drove into the picturesque town and immediately whipped out my camera. We were obviously brought to the most picturesque town in Portugal to start our tour, an idea which wasn’t necessarily disproved over the rest of the week.

Entering the village, I took in the quaint cobblestone streets lined with stucco buildings containing cafes and shops. To our right was a beautiful church. Nearby was a shrine built in 1182. But the town’s history goes all the way back to the 4th century, and even the Knights Templar played their role in it’s construction.

Nazare Town Square

We stopped in the village center for a view off the cliff. The the town is separated into two halves – Praia down along the beach and Sitio on the cliff overlooking it, with a funicular connecting the two. The village square was filled with vendors selling dried fruit and nuts, but it was hard to pay them any attention when the stunning vista was on hand.

Nazare Panorama from Sitio

Sitiado

After getting plenty of photos, we went for lunch at Sitiado. This little village cafe has all of about twenty seats, surrounded by some pretty incredible decorations and memorabilia. Their forte is tapas, and we had plenty of them.The meal started off with olives and bread, and progressed through clams, cockles, sardines, a baked chorizo sausage, grilled mushrooms, buttery shrimp, potato skins, ham and eggs, and a tuna steak. If my culinary experience in Portugal had finished there, I would have been more than satisfied. Click here for more photos.

Sitiado Chorizo Sausage

Nazare Lighthouse

At the end of the promontory is the Nazaré lighthouse. The lighthouse tower itself is a little anticlimactic, but it’s part of a larger fortress on top of the cliff. The building includes a museum (€1 entry) displaying the topography of the local ocean and a surfing hall of fame for those who have conquered the local waves, both of which contribute to the primary feature of the town. In November 2011, Garrett McNamara made Nazaré internationally famous by surfing a wave officially measuring 78 feet. In January 2013, he returned to surf another wave unofficially recorded at 100 feet! Both waves occurred directly off the coast from the lighthouse. I had the opportunity to talk with one surfer who was on the fortress to see Garrett’s 2013 performance. He said the wave crashing against the cliff shook the whole castle as the water splashed over the lighthouse.

Nazare Lighthouse

Taberna D’ Adélia

As if we didn’t get enough good food at Sitiado, dinner was at a much larger establishment in the narrow streets of Praia. Taberna D’ Adélia is known for their fresh fish stew. On display as you walk in are several huge fish on ice, ready to be prepared for the evening meals. Ours began with more tapas – olives, sardines, cheese, octopus, bread and a fish pâté. This was followed by a fish deliciously cooked, but not completely de-boned, which I learned the hard way. Halfway through the fish, eeone of the bones got lodged in my throat. I commented on it at the time, but my ecstasy with the food must have still been registering on my face, since they took it as a joke and laughed it off.

Taberna D' Adélia Fish

The next course was the famed fish stew, containing large chunks of flesh so delicate it practically melted apart before I could get it to my mouth. The portions were far too much for us to finish, my own serving made more difficult by the fish bone in my throat.

Finally dessert arrived. Or rather desserts (plural). We were served nine different custards and puddings, each of which we all sampled. This time, the bone didn’t hinder me from enjoying as much as I could, which was considerable as everyone else was past satiated. The wine continued to flow, and it was nearly midnight when we finally stumbled back toward our hotel.

My Dessert Plate

Hotel Mare

We spent the night at Hotel Mare, just up the road from the beach. As far as a hotel went, there weren’t many frills. The room was comfortable, but I really didn’t spend a lot of time in it with our late dinner and then early breakfast. That breakfast was really good – buffet style served in the panoramic dining room on the top floor.

Nazare Panorama from Hotel Mare

And that was it. Breakfast finished, we all jumped into the van and were on our way to Peniche for our surfing lessons. Stay tuned for that story soon.

Resources

For more photos of Nazare, check out the gallery.

Additional articles for central Portugal:

Click on the map below to add all the above attractions to your Google Maps.

Planning to visit Portugal?

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Disclaimer: My endless thanks to Visit Portugal, Madomis Tours, Naturexperience, Sitiado, Taberna D’Adelia and Hotel Mare for inviting me to these amazing locations. As always, my views and opinions are completely my own.
My week in Portugal was primarily about best surfing locations. It's been years since I was on a board, and I wasn't quite ready to surf the waves in Nazaré, which can get over 100-feet high in the winter! Everything else I found the town was simply wonderful. Nazaré was the first stop on my tour of central Portugal. Taking a nap in the van from Lisbon (since I was up at 5 to catch my flight) I was woken up as we drove into the picturesque town and immediately whipped out my camera. We were obviously brought to the most…

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18 comments

  1. I do love portugal – and centro is such an undiscovered region isn’t it? I’ve never been to Nazare but it looks exactly the kind of place I enjoy visiting myself. Thank you for sharing.

  2. We visited Portugal the last time but we definitely plan to go back. I feel like we didn’t have enough time to really explore. I Loved it’s affordability.

  3. Looking at the first photo, I didn’t really think much of it because of the crowded beach – something that I don’t personally enjoy – but when I got to the 3rd photo, I know I still have to visit this place one day! The view is just amazing! I’ve only been to Lisbon before and every time I read a post on Portugal nowadays, it makes me regret not spending more time in Portugal, exploring the country. That’s something that I hope to rectify one day soon! In any case, am still trying to imagine a 100-foot high wave by a beach! That sounds like real crazy!

    • Thanks. Yeah, the south beach is definitely a bit crowded, but still not as bad as other places in Europe. The north beach is a different story entirely – practically empty! And yeah, that wave is definitely extraordinary. Wish I could have captured a photo of it myself. Someday…

  4. What a gorgeous view of the beach! I can’t believe it would have 100-foot waves! Will you go back there in winter? It is indeed a picturesque destination. Portugal is <3.

    • Thanks! I certainly would go in the winter, since that’s when the 100-foot waves happen. Mainly in January. And I don’t think it gets that cold in the winter, as it’s on the Atlantic coast.

  5. Siddhartha Joshi

    100-Foot Waves sounds like crazy fun! The houses and streets in Nazaré also look gorgeous…easy to spend days here 🙂

  6. Wow that is some incredible surf, wouldn’t want to be out in that! Just as well there is such good eating and exploring to do on land too. Those cobbled streets and impressive cliffs would have me happy just wandering for days with my camera.

  7. I have only been to Lisbon and Madeira in Portugal. From your pictures and descriptions Nazare could be a cool stop during my next trip to Portugal, plus sardines are sooooooooo good! 🙂

  8. Perfect timing! Just what I needed. I’m planning a trip to Portugal and this is really handy. Definitely book marking this. Thanks for sharing. 🙂

  9. What a gorgeous place to visit! The view out to the ocean looks stunning, especially when you see the colour of the water! The church looks quite magnificent too, beautiful architecture and design.

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